Lavender

Hey plant lovers, Welcome back to Plantillee. Today we're talking about lavender and specifically about the handful of things I learned that completely transformed how mind grows because for years I was making mistakes with lavender that I didn't even know were mistakes. And I'm willing to bet you're making at least two of them right now. Lavender is one of those plants that seems like it should be easy. It grows wild across the Mediterranean. It survives on rocky hillsides with almost no soil and no irrigation. It thrives in conditions that would kill most garden plants. So when you bring one home, stick it in a nice pot with good soil. Water it regularly and give it a comfortable spot on your porch. You expect it to do great, and then it doesn't. The leaves go gray, the stems get woody and bare at the base, the flowers are sparse or nonexistent, and within a year or two, the plant looks like it's given up on life. The problem isn't that lavender is hard to grow. The problem is that almost everything we instinctively do to take care of a plant is the opposite of what lavender wants. And once you understand why, once you stop treating lavender like a regular house plant and start treating it like what it actually is, a Mediterranean drought survivor that thrives on neglect and stress, everything changes, the growth changes, the fragrance changes, the blooming changes. Before we get into it. Hit subscribe if you want real, practical plant knowledge every week. Plantillee is for people who want their plants to actually thrive, not just survive. Let me start with the single most important thing I learned, because this one detail fixed more problems than everything else combined. Lavender does not want rich soil. It wants poor, fast draining, almost gravelly soil. This goes against every instinct most plant owners have. When we buy a new plant, we give it the best potting mix we can find. Rich, dark, moisture-retaining, full of organic matter. And for most plants, that works. But for lavender? The rich soil is a death sentence in slow motion. Here's why. Lavender evolved on limestone hillsides and rocky coastal slopes around the Mediterranean Sea in southern France, Spain, Italy, Greece and Turkey. The soil in those environments is shallow, alkaline, mineral-rich but nutrient-poor, and drained so fast that water passes through within minutes of a rainstorm. The roots are never sitting in moisture. They're in a well-aerated, almost gritty medium that dries out quickly and completely between rains. When you put lavender and standard potting mix, which is designed to hold moisture, the roots stay wet for too long. Lavender roots are extremely susceptible to fungal root rot. They didn't evolve to handle persistent moisture. In the wild, they deal with brief, intense rainstorms followed by days or weeks of dry heat. Constant dampness around the roots creates conditions for fungi that the plant has no defense against. The roots decay, nutrient uptake fails, the foliage grays out, and the plant slowly dies from the ground up while you keep watering it, making the problem worse with every well-intentioned drink. The fix is simple and immediate. Mix your potting soil with at least 30 to 50% perlite, coarse sand, or fine gravel. Some lavender growers go even further using a mix that's 70% mineral material and only 30% organic potting mix. In the ground, heavy clay or rich garden soil with sand and gravel before planting. If your soil doesn't drain fast enough that water runs through it visibly within seconds of pouring, it's too heavy for lavender. This single change, switching from moisture retentive soil to fast draining gritty mix will fix more lavender problems than any other adjustment you can make. The plant will respond within weeks, roots will recover, new growth will be firmer and more aromatic, and the woody bear stem problem that kills most lavender plants starts at the root level, literally, with soil that stays too wet. The second revelation was about watering, and it connects directly to the soil issue. Lavender needs dramatically less water than most people give it. Once established, A lavender plant in the ground in most of the United States needs supplemental watering only during extended dry spells, and even then, a deep soak once every two to three weeks is enough. In a pot, water only when the soil is completely dry, not just. surface dry, but dry 2 to 3 inches down. Stick your finger in. If there's any moisture at all, wait! Over watering lavender doesn't just cause root rot. It also reduces the concentration of essential oils in the leaves and flowers, which is what gives lavender its fragrance. Research on lavender oil production and commercial farming confirms this. Plants grown under mild drought stress consistently produce higher concentrations of linalool and linalyl acetate, the two primary aromatic compounds in lavender oil then plants that receive regular irrigation. The plant produces more fragrance when it's slightly thirsty. Comfort makes it lazy. Stress makes it aromatic. 嘿，植物爱好者们，欢迎回到 Plantillee。今天我们来聊聊薰衣草，特别是那些我后来才学会、却彻底改变我种植方式的关键经验。因为很多年来，我一直在犯一些错误，而且我根本不知道那是错误。我敢打赌，你现在至少也犯了其中两个。 薰衣草是一种看起来应该很容易种植的植物。它在地中海地区野生生长，在几乎没有土壤、没有灌溉的岩石山坡上也能存活。它甚至能在大多数园艺植物都会死亡的环境里茁壮成长。所以，当你把它买回家，种进一个漂亮的花盆里，放上优质土壤，定期浇水，再给它一个舒适的门廊位置时，你自然会以为它会长得很好——结果却不是。叶子开始发灰，枝干变得木质化，底部光秃秃的，花开得很少甚至不开花，不到一两年，这株植物看起来就像放弃了生命一样。问题不在于薰衣草难种，而是在于：我们本能地对植物做的大多数“照顾”，其实刚好和薰衣草真正想要的完全相反。而一旦你明白原因，一旦你不再把薰衣草当成普通室内植物，而开始把它当成它真正的样子——一种来自地中海、靠干旱与贫瘠环境生存、甚至喜欢“被忽略”和承受压力的植物——一切都会改变。它的生长会改变，香气会改变，开花情况也会改变。 在开始之前，如果你想每周都获得真实、实用的植物知识，记得订阅。Plantillee 是为那些希望植物真正“茁壮成长”，而不仅仅是“勉强活着”的人而存在的。 先让我讲我学到的最重要的一件事，因为这一点解决的问题，比其他所有因素加起来还多：薰衣草不喜欢肥沃的土壤。它喜欢贫瘠、排水极快、几乎像砂石一样的土壤。这和大多数植物爱好者的直觉完全相反。我们买新植物时，总会想给它最好的培养土：肥沃、深色、保水性强、富含有机质。对于大多数植物来说，这确实有效。但对薰衣草来说？这种肥沃土壤，等于是慢性的死亡判决。原因如下：薰衣草原本生长在地中海沿岸的石灰岩山坡和岩石海岸上，例如法国南部、西班牙、意大利、希腊和土耳其等地。那些地方的土壤通常很浅、偏碱性、富含矿物质但营养贫乏，而且排水速度极快——雨一下，几分钟内水就流光了。它的根从来不会长时间泡在湿气里。它们生长在一种通风良好、几乎带颗粒感的介质中，两场降雨之间会迅速而彻底地干燥。当你把薰衣草种进普通培养土时——而这种土本来就是为了“保水”设计的——根部就会湿太久。薰衣草的根特别容易感染真菌性烂根病，因为它们从来没有演化出应对持续潮湿环境的能力。在野外，它们面对的是短暂猛烈的大雨，然后是连续数天甚至数周的干热天气。如果根部长时间潮湿，就会形成真菌滋生的条件，而薰衣草对此几乎没有防御能力。根开始腐烂，营养吸收失败，叶片发灰，而你还在不断浇水——每一次“好心”的浇水，其实都在让问题变得更严重。解决方法其实非常简单，而且见效很快：在培养土里至少加入 30% 到 50% 的珍珠岩、粗砂或细碎石。有些专业薰衣草种植者甚至会使用 70% 矿物材料、只有 30% 有机培养土的混合介质。如果是地栽，就要在种植前往厚重黏土或肥沃园土中混入砂石和碎砾。如果你的土壤排水不够快，浇水后不能在几秒钟内明显流走，那它对薰衣草来说就太重了。仅仅这一项改变——从“保水土”改成“快速排水的颗粒土”——就能解决大多数薰衣草的问题，比任何其他调整都更有效。植物会在几周内开始恢复。根系恢复健康，新长出的枝叶会更结实、更香，而那种最终害死大多数薰衣草的“木质化光秃枝干”问题，其实从根本上来说，就是因为土壤太湿。第二个让我彻底改观的认知，是关于浇水的，而且它和土壤问题直接相关：薰衣草需要的水，远比大多数人给它的少得多。一旦定植成功，在美国大多数地区，种在地里的薰衣草只有在长期干旱时才需要额外浇水。即便如此，每两到三周深度浇透一次就已经足够。如果种在盆里，则只在土壤完全干透时才浇水。不是表面干，而是往下 2 到 3 英寸都干了才行。把手指插进去检查。如果还有任何湿气，就继续等。给薰衣草浇水过多，不只是会导致烂根。它还会降低叶子和花朵中精油的浓度，而这些精油正是薰衣草香气的来源。关于薰衣草精油生产与商业种植的研究已经证实：在轻度干旱压力下生长的薰衣草，其所含的芳樟醇（linalool）和乙酸芳樟酯（linalyl acetate）——也就是薰衣草香味的两种主要芳香成分——浓度明显高于那些经常灌溉的植株。薰衣草在“稍微缺水”的时候，反而会更香。太舒适，会让它变懒。适度的压力，才会让它释放香气。 This is why lavender grows in Provence. 500. Smells more intensely than lavender grown in a well-watered American garden. It's not the variety, it's the growing conditions. Hot, dry, nutrient-poor, wind-exposed, and neglected by any standard normal plant care. And the lavender responds by producing the most concentrated, fragrant oils it can. The stress is the signal. The fragrance is the response. The third revelation was about pruning, and this is the one that prevents the number one cosmetic problem with lavender, the woody, leggy, bare-stemmed look that makes older plants look like they're dying even when they're technically alive. Lavender grows on a woody base. Every year, the lower portions of the stems harden into wood while new soft green growth emerges from the top. If you never prune, the plant grows taller and taller on an increasingly woody skeleton. The base becomes bare. The green growth retreats to the tips. The plant looks like a stick with a small tuft of leaves at the top. It's still alive, but it's ugly, and it blooms less every year. Here's the critical rule that changed everything for me. Never cut into the woody part of the stem. Lavender cannot regenerate from old wood. If you cut a stem below the point where green growth exists, that stem will never produce new growth again. It's dead. This is the opposite of most shrubs, which can be hard pruned to the ground and come back. Lavender can't do that. Once wood is wood, it's done. The correct technique is to prune into the soft green growth only; about 1/3 of the way down from the top, shaping the plant into a rounded mound. Do this twice a year. Once in early spring after the last frost when you can see new green growth emerging, and once in late summer after the main bloom is finished. Each pruning stimulates branching, which keeps the plant dense, compact and full of the green growth that produces both leaves and flowers. If you start this from the plant's first year, you'll maintain a tight, rounded, heavily flowering bush for 10 to 15 years. 正确的修剪方法，是只修剪到柔软的绿色新生枝条部分；大约从植株顶部往下修剪三分之一的位置，同时把整株修剪成圆拱形。一年要修剪两次。在早春霜冻过后,进行一次（修剪）第二次是在夏末、主要花期结束之后进行。每一次修剪都会刺激植株分枝，这能让薰衣草保持浓密、紧凑，并持续拥有大量绿色新枝，而这些绿色枝条正是长叶子和开花的关键。如果从植株第一年开始就这样修剪，你就能在未来 10 到 15 年里，一直维持一株紧实、圆润、花量丰富的薰衣草灌木。 If you've neglected pruning for several years and the plant is already woody and bare at the base. You can sometimes rescue it with a gradual renovation. Cut back 1/3 of the oldest stems each year over three years, allowing new growth to slowly replace the woody skeleton. But not every plant recovers from this. Prevention is far easier than rescue. The 4th revelation was about sunlight, and this one is straightforward but worth emphasizing. Because it's the second most common reason lavender doesn't bloom. Lavender needs a minimum of six hours of direct sun per day. Not bright indirect light, not morning sun with afternoon shade. Direct, full unfiltered sunlight for six hours minimum, 8 hours, ideal. In the Mediterranean, lavender grows on open south-facing hillsides where there's zero shade from dawn to dusk. When you place lavender on a north-facing porch, under a tree canopy, or in a spot that only gets a few hours of morning light, you're depriving it of the energy it needs to produce flowers. The plant might survive in partial shade, but it won't bloom well, and the growth will be laggy and weak as it stretches toward whatever light it can find. 如果你已经好几年没有修剪，而植株底部已经变得木质化、光秃秃的，有时候仍然可以通过“渐进式更新修剪”来挽救它。方法是：连续三年，每年剪掉最老枝条的三分之一，让新的绿色枝条慢慢取代那些木质化的老枝骨架。不过，并不是每一株都能恢复。预防，远比事后抢救容易得多。 第四个让我彻底改观的认知，是关于阳光的。这一点其实很简单，但非常值得特别强调，因为这是薰衣草不开花的第二大常见原因。薰衣草每天至少需要六小时的直射阳光。不是明亮的散射光，也不是只有上午晒太阳、下午阴凉的环境。而是真正直接、完整、无遮挡的阳光，每天至少六小时。理想情况则是八小时。在地中海地区，薰衣草生长在朝南、完全开阔的山坡上，从日出到日落几乎没有任何遮阴。如果你把薰衣草放在朝北的门廊下、树荫底下，或者一天只晒得到几小时晨光的位置，你其实是在剥夺它制造花朵所需的能量。薰衣草在半阴环境里或许还能活着，但它不会开得好。而且植株会因为拼命朝有光的方向伸展，长得细长、松散而虚弱。 If you're growing 805 Wing lavender indoors, it needs the brightest window you have, ideally S facing, and even then supplemental grow lighting during winter makes a significant difference. Indoor lavender is challenging precisely because most homes can't provide the light intensity this plant evolved for. It's not impossible. But it requires the sunniest spot in your home and realistic expectations about bloom quantity compared to outdoor plants. The 5th revelation was about fertilizer, and this one is simple. Don't ! Lavender needs almost no fertilizer in its native environment. It grows in nutritionally poor soil and thrives because of it, not despite it. High nitrogen fertilizers cause lavender to produce soft, floppy, leggy growth. With reduced oil content and fewer flowers, the plant grows bigger but weaker, more susceptible to disease, and less fragrant. If you feel compelled to fertilize, use a light application of a low-nitrogen, higher potassium formula once in early spring. But honestly, most lavender performs better with no fertilizer at all, especially if it's planted in amended soil with some mineral content. The plant finds what it needs. It's been doing that on rocky Mediterranean hillsides for thousands of years without anyone helping. The 6th revelation was about air flow, and this is one that indoor growers and container gardeners. Often missed entirely, lavender needs excellent air circulation around its foliage and especially around its base. In the wild, it grows on exposed hillsides where wind moves constantly through the plants. That wind does two things it keeps humidity low around the leaves, preventing fungal diseases, and it dries the soil surface quickly after rain. Protecting the roots In a still humid indoor environment or in a crowded garden bed where plants are packed too close together, moisture lingers on the leaves and around the crown. That's an invitation for grey mold, powdery mildew, and crown rot. Space your lavender plants at least two to three feet apart outdoors. Indoors, place them where air moves. Near a window that opens, or use a small fan to create gentle circulation. Now let me talk about varieties, because choosing the right lavender for your climate is something most people get wrong, and it's a mistake you can't fix with better care. English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, is the classic variety and the heartiest. It survives winters and zones. 5 through 9 produce the most intensely fragrant flowers and are the types used in essential oil production. If you live anywhere in the continental United States except the Deep South or extreme desert southwest, English lavender is your best bet. Popular cultivars include Hid Coat, which has deep purple flowers on compact plants and. Instead, which is slightly shorter and excellent for borders and containers, French lavender Lavandula dentata has serrated leaves and blooms almost continuously in mild climates, but can't handle cold winters. It's ideal for zones 8 through 11, which means coastal California, the Gulf Coast, and the low elevation SW. It's beautiful, but it won't survive a Northeast or Midwest winter outdoors. Spanish lavender, Lavandula stokas, is the showiest variety, with distinctive rabbit ear petals on top of the flower heads. It's also a warm climate, only zones 7 through 10, and it's the most sensitive to humidity if you live in the humid Southeast. Spanish lavender will struggle even if temperatures are warm enough. Lavandin, Lavandula X intermedia, is a hybrid between English lavender and spike lavender. It produces the largest plants, the most flowers, and the highest oil yield. Province Grosso and Phenomenal are popular cultivars. Lavandin. Is more heat-tolerant than English lavender and is the variety you see in those iconic purple fields across southern France. If you want the biggest, most dramatic lavender display, Lavandin is the choice, and phenomenal in particular was bred for humidity tolerance, making it the best option for the Mid-Atlantic and Upper South. Let me bring this together with the seasonal care timeline that puts everything into practice in early spring. Once the last frost has passed and you see new green growth emerging from the base, do your first pruning. Shape the plant into a rounded mound, cutting into the green growth only, removing about 1/3. Clean up any dead stems from winter. This is the only time you might lightly fertilize if you're going to it. All late spring through summer is the hands-off. Water only when the soil is completely dry. Deadhead spent flower stalks by cutting them back to the first set of leaves below the flower. This encourages repeat blooming and varieties that rebloom, and keeps the plant looking tidy. Harvest flowers for drying when the buds are showing. Color but not fully open. That's when oil concentration peaks. Late summer, after the main bloom is finished. Do your second prune. Same technique, 1/3 off the green growth, shaping into a mound. This pruning prepares the plant for fall and prevents it from going into winter with long, vulnerable stems that can break under snow. More ice. And here's a bonus that comes from that late summer prune. Every stem you cut is a potential new plant. Lavender propagates easily from cuttings, which means one healthy plant can become ten within a single season. Take 4-inch cuttings from semi-hardwood stems, meaning stems that are partially woody at the base but still green and flexible. The tip Strip the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you have it, though it's not strictly necessary. Stick the cuttings into a pot of damp perlite or a 5050 mix of perlite and sand. Keep them in bright, indirect light, mist lightly every couple of days, and within four to six weeks, you'll have rooted cuttings ready to pot up individually. This is how lavender farms in Providence multiply their stock. It's how American herb gardeners have been sharing lavender for generations. And it means your investment in one good lavender plant can furnish your entire porch, your garden border, and your neighbor's window box for free. One more thing about harvesting, because timing this correctly makes the difference between lavender that smells incredible. And lavender that smells like dried grass. The best time to harvest lavender flowers for drying is when about half the buds on a flower spike have opened and the other half are still closed. That's when the essential oil concentration peaks. If you wait until all the buds are fully open, you've already lost a significant percentage of the volatile aromatic compounds to evaporation. The scent is literally floating away in the air you're enjoying, which is great for your garden experience, but not great for your dried lavender bundles. Cut the stems long, at least 8 to 10 inches. Bundle 5 to 10 stems together with a rubber band or string. Hang the bundles upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space. The Closet. Covered porch or a dry basement works well. Direct sunlight fades the color and degrades the oils, so darkness matters. In one to two weeks, the flowers will be fully dry and the fragrance will be concentrated and preserved, stored in an airtight container away from light. Dried lavender retains its scent for a year or more. Foam stop watering. Seriously, unless you're in an extreme drought, your lavender doesn't need supplemental water going into dormancy. The drier it goes into winter, the better it handles the cold. In zones 5 and 6, a light layer of gravel mulch around the base, not bark mulch which holds moisture, protects the crown from freeze thaw cycles. Winter, leave it alone. Resist the urge to prune. Resist the urge to tidy up dead looking growth. Lavender is dormant. The dead looking stems above the woody base are protecting the crown and the dormant buds inside. Wait until spring until you see green before you touch it. If you follow this timeline consistently, year after year, your lavender will develop into a dense. Grounded, heavily flowering Bush that lives for 10 to 15 years or more produces increasingly intense fragrance as it matures and requires less attention with each passing season. The first two years require the most discipline. After that, lavender rewards patience with compound interest. Everything I've described comes down to one principle. Stop treating lavender like it needs your help. Give it some drainage, air, and space. Water it less, feed it less. Prune it twice a year and leave it alone the rest of the time. The plant knows how to grow. It's been doing it on Mediterranean hillsides since before recorded history. Your job isn't to nurture it. Your job is to. To create the conditions that evolved for and get out of the way. Since I learned that my lavender has never looked better. If this changed how you think about lavender care, subscribe to Plan Tellier. Tell me in the comments, what's been your biggest struggle with lavender? I want to hear it. Take care of your plants dot DO take care of your plants. 一旦最后一次霜冻过去，并且你看到植株基部长出新的绿色嫩芽，就进行第一次修剪。把植株修剪成圆拱状，只修剪绿色的新生部分，大约剪掉三分之一。同时清理冬天枯死的枝条。如果你真的想施肥，这是唯一可以稍微施一点肥的时候。从晚春到整个夏季，基本上就是“少管它”的阶段。只有当土壤完全干透时才浇水。花谢后，把残花花梗剪回到花朵下方第一组叶子的地方。这能促进一些会重复开花的品种再次开花，也能让植株保持整洁美观。如果想采花来干燥保存，应在花苞已经显色、但尚未完全开放时采收。因为这个阶段精油浓度最高。到了夏末，主花期结束后，进行第二次修剪。方法相同：剪掉三分之一的绿色部分，并修成圆丘形状。这次修剪能帮助植株为秋季做好准备，避免带着过长而脆弱的枝条进入冬季，否则这些枝条在积雪或冰冻下容易折断。另外还有一个来自夏末修剪的额外好处：你剪下的每一根枝条，都有可能成为一株新的薰衣草。 薰衣草非常容易通过扦插繁殖，也就是说，一株健康的植株，在一个季节内就能变成十株。选取大约4英寸长的半木质化枝条，也就是基部已经有些木质化，但顶端仍然绿色柔软、有弹性的枝条。去掉下部叶子，如果有生根粉，可以把切口蘸一下，不过并不是绝对必要。然后把插穗插入潮湿的珍珠岩，或者珍珠岩与沙子1:1混合的介质中。把它们放在明亮但避免直射阳光的地方，每隔几天轻轻喷雾保湿。四到六周后，你就会得到已经生根、可以单独上盆的小苗。 这就是普罗旺斯（Provence）的薰衣草农场大量繁殖薰衣草的方法，也是美国香草园艺爱好者世代分享薰衣草的方式。这意味着，你只需买一株好的薰衣草，就能免费种满整个门廊、花坛边缘，甚至送给邻居窗台种植。关于采收还有一点非常重要，因为采收时间会决定你的薰衣草是香气惊人，还是闻起来像干草。最佳采收时间，是当一个花穗上大约一半花苞已经开放，而另一半仍未开放的时候。这时精油含量达到最高峰。如果等到所有花苞完全盛开，你其实已经失去了大量容易挥发的芳香化合物。香味已经飘散到空气中了——这对你在花园里的体验很好，但对制作干燥薰衣草束却不理想。 剪下长长的花梗，至少8到10英寸长。每5到10枝扎成一束，用橡皮筋或绳子固定。然后把花束倒挂在阴暗、干燥、通风良好的地方。衣柜、遮盖式门廊，或干燥的地下室都很适合。 阳光直射会让花色褪去，也会破坏精油，所以保持黑暗非常重要。一到两周后，花朵就会完全干燥，香味也会被浓缩并保存下来。之后放入密封容器中，并避光保存。干燥薰衣草的香味通常能维持一年甚至更久。秋天时停止浇水。真的，除非遇到极端干旱，否则薰衣草在进入休眠期时不需要额外补水。它在越干燥的状态下进入冬天，抗寒能力反而越强。在美国5至6耐寒区，可以在植株基部铺一层薄薄的碎石覆盖物——注意不要用树皮覆盖物，因为树皮会积水。碎石能保护植株基部，避免冻融循环造成伤害。冬天时，不要动它。克制住修剪的冲动，也不要急着清理那些看起来已经枯死的枝条。薰衣草只是进入了休眠状态。那些木质基部上方看似枯死的枝条，其实是在保护植株中心和内部休眠的芽点。 等到春天看到新的绿色生长后，再开始处理。如果你年复一年坚持按照这个时间表管理，你的薰衣草会逐渐长成一株浓密、稳固、花量巨大的灌木，可以活10到15年以上。随着成熟，它的香味会越来越浓郁，而你需要付出的照顾却会越来越少。前两年需要最多的耐心与自律。之后，薰衣草会像“复利”一样回报你的耐心。 我所描述的一切，其实都归结为一个原则：不要总把薰衣草当成需要你不断帮助的植物。给它排水良好的土壤、空气和空间。少浇水，少施肥。一年修剪两次，其余时间别去打扰它。植物自己知道该怎么生长。它在地中海山坡上已经这样生长了几千年，甚至早于人类有历史记录的时候。你的工作不是“精心呵护”它，而是创造适合它自然演化的环境，然后别挡它的路。自从我明白这一点后，我种的薰衣草状态从未如此好过。如果这改变了你对薰衣草养护的看法，请订阅 Plan Tellier。在评论区告诉我，你种薰衣草时最大的困难是什么？我很想听听。照顾好你的植物。真的，要好好照顾你的植物。

圆明园

圆明园在1860年已经被烧过一次了。到1900年的时候，剩下的建筑已经不多了，很多地方就是废墟。但是八国联军进了北京之后，再一次对圆明园进行了彻底的系统的毁灭性的破坏，这一次连废墟都不放过，他们把剩下的石雕砸碎，把残留的金属构件熔炼，把还能用的木料拆走，把地基都给你刨了，他们在找什么，他们在销毁什么，他们在找司仪管的痕迹。明朝的司仪管到了清朝，功能有所变化，名称也变了，变成了四译馆，或者会同四译馆，但核心功能之一，培养翻译人才，整理周边国家和民族的语言文字。保存相关的典籍资料，是一直延续下来的，而且这个机构跟圆明园有着千丝万缕的联系，大量的图书教材档案图纸，就保存在圆明园及其周边的附属机构里。八国联军里的很多人，尤其是那些随军的学者，传教士，间谍，他们非常清楚这些东西在哪里。他们的目标非常明确，抢走能抢走的，烧掉抢不走的，彻底抹去一切欧洲文明曾向中国学习的证据。

二战日军投降，中国要求日本赔偿， 是美国强迫蒋介石不准要求赔偿

日本对华赔偿问题战后几十年来一直成为学术界与当政者之间的争论话题。事实上，蒋中正对赔偿一事从未松口，他并且同意战后日本以实物作为赔偿的一部分。1945年8月15日蒋中正的为抗战胜利告全国军民及世界人士书中对战后日本的态度十分明确，他说，我中国同胞须知“不念旧恶”， 及 “与人为善”为我民族传统至高至贵的德性。我们一贯声言，只认日本黩武的军阀为敌，不以日本的人民为敌，今天敌军已被我们盟邦共同打倒了，我们当然要严密责惩他，忠实执行所有的投降条件。八一五的时候，他的宣言，说：我们要“与人为善”， 我们不是要复仇。以牙还牙，以眼还眼，但是日本人要根据波茨坦会议负责赔偿。而且委员长对这件事非常认真，非常重视，因为委员长和中国整个政府当时希望用这个赔偿的物资，振兴我们的中国的工业，蒋介石也冤枉的，他派的代表在日本跟日本人拍桌子大闹要求赔偿；是美国人，后来通知蒋介石，美国政府叫蒋介石不许要日本赔偿， 因为我们需要把日本重新建设起来，抵抗苏俄，你中国需要钱，将来我们美国给你，美国给了没有， 没有！后来一直到了韩战以后，美国才来美援，那些美援不是送给我们的，要照利息还的。 The issue of Japanese reparations to China has remained a topic of debate between scholars and political leaders for decades after the war. In fact, Chiang Kai-shek never softened his position on reparations, and he also agreed that part of Japan’s postwar compensation could be paid in goods and materials. In his August 15, 1945 address to the Chinese people and the world announcing victory in the War of Resistance, Chiang Kai-shek made his attitude toward postwar Japan very clear. He said that the Chinese people must understand that “not dwelling on past evils” and “treating others with kindness” are among the highest and noblest virtues of the Chinese nation. He stated that China had always regarded only Japan’s militarist warlords as the enemy, not the Japanese people themselves. Now that the enemy forces had been defeated jointly by China and the Allied powers, China would, of course, strictly punish them and faithfully carry out all the terms of surrender. In his August 15 declaration, he said that China should “treat others with kindness”; China was not seeking revenge, not “an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth.” However, Japan still had to make reparations in accordance with the decisions of the Potsdam Conference. The Generalissimo took this matter very seriously and attached great importance to it, because both he and the Chinese government hoped to use those reparations materials to rebuild and revitalize China’s industry. In a sense, Chiang Kai-shek was also treated unfairly. The representatives he sent to Japan argued fiercely with the Japanese side, pounding the table and demanding reparations. But later, the Americans informed Chiang Kai-shek that the U.S. government did not want China to demand reparations from Japan, because the United States needed to rebuild Japan in order to resist the Soviet Union. The Americans told Chiang Kai-shek: China needs money, and in the future, the United States will provide it. But did America actually provide it? No. It was not until after the Korean War that American aid finally arrived. And even then, that aid was not simply given to China for free — it had to be repaid with interest.

EM1 means Effective Microorganism One

在农业领域里，“EM1”通常是指 有效微生物菌液第一号（Effective Microorganisms 1），这是由 Teruo Higa 在 Japan 开发的一种有益微生物混合液。它被广泛应用于：自然农法有机农业堆肥园艺畜牧业土壤改良 EM1里面有什么？ EM1含有许多有益微生物，例如： 乳酸菌，酵母菌，光合细菌，发酵菌类与其他有益微生物 这些都属于“好菌”，能够帮助改善土壤与有机物的生态环境。 农民通常会把EM1用水稀释，有时再加入糖蜜（molasses）活化后，喷洒在：土壤，作物，堆肥，畜禽，粪便，水池等地方。 为什么农民喜欢使用EM1？农民使用EM1，主要是为了改善土壤生态，并减少对化学农药与化肥的依赖。1. 改善土壤健康. EM1能增加土壤中的微生物活动。健康的微生物能够：更快分解有机物。 提高养分吸收。让土壤更加松软肥沃。2. 促进植物生长。有些农民发现使用EM1后：根系更强壮，叶子更翠绿，作物长势更好，产量提高。尤其是在长期使用化肥、导致土壤微生物受损的土地上。3. 减少恶臭与腐败。 EM1常被用于：堆肥场，畜牧场，粪便处理系统。因为它能促进“发酵”而不是“腐烂”，从而减少臭味。4. 加快堆肥速度。EM1能加速分解：树叶稻草厨余动物粪便。 因此能更快制成堆肥。5. 减少化学肥料使用。有些农民利用EM1来减少：化学肥料，农药，除草剂。不过效果会因土壤条件与管理方式不同而有所差异。 为什么叫“EM1”？ “EM”是 Effective Microorganisms（有效微生物） 的缩写。 “EM1”是原始浓缩菌液。 农民通常会把EM1与：水，糖蜜。混合后发酵几天，制成“活化EM”： Activated EM，AEM，然后再使用。 EM1真的有效吗？ 对此有不同看法。支持者认为：土壤更健康作物更强壮病害与臭味减少更符合永续农业理念质疑者认为：科学证据并不完全一致效果非常依赖土壤条件与管理方式有些效果可能只是因为增加了有机质 不过实际上，很多自然农法与有机农民仍然喜欢使用EM1，因为它成本低、风险小，而且操作简单。 活化EM（AEM）的常见制作方法 材料，1. EM1 原液。市售EM1。2. 糖蜜（Molasses）黑糖蜜最好。没有的话，也有人用：黑糖，红糖，黄糖。但效果可能略差。3. 无氯水。最好是：井水雨水放置24小时以上的自来水因为氯会杀死微生物。见比例。很多农民使用：EM1：1份糖蜜：1份水：18份。例如：EM1 1公升，糖蜜 1公升，水 18公升。总共约20公升。 制作步骤 第一步：混合。先把糖蜜溶于温水中（不要太热）。然后加入EM1。第二步：密封发酵。装入塑胶桶。注意：尽量减少空气，盖紧，但每天稍微放气一次。因为发酵会产生气体。第三步：发酵。放在温暖阴暗处。 通常：夏天：5～7天冬天：7～14天。怎样算成功？成功的活化EM通常：有酸甜发酵味。像酸菜、酵素、优格那种气味。pH 大约 3.5 以下颜色通常：黄褐色，深棕色。什么情况表示失败？如果出现： 臭味，腐败味，发霉（特别是黑霉、绿霉）pH太高 通常表示坏菌污染。 如何使用？土壤喷洒 常见稀释比例：1:100 ～ 1:500 例如：100 c.c. 活化EM，加10公升水 喷土壤或叶面。堆肥。可直接喷在：厨余落叶动物粪便。帮助发酵。除臭。很多农场喷在：猪舍鸡舍排水沟，减少臭味。为什么EM会有效？原理主要是：有益菌大量繁殖后，会压制：腐败菌部分病原菌 同时帮助有机物发酵分解。简单讲，就是：“用好菌去抢地盘。” In farming, “EM1” usually refers to Effective Microorganisms 1, a liquid mixture of beneficial microbes developed by Teruo Higa in Japan. It is used in natural farming, composting, gardening, livestock care, and soil improvement. What is inside EM1? EM1 contains living beneficial microorganisms such as: Lactic acid bacteria Yeasts Photosynthetic bacteria Fermenting fungi and microbes These microbes are considered “good bacteria” that help create a healthier biological environment in soil and organic matter. Farmers usually dilute EM1 with water and sometimes molasses before spraying it on: soil compost crops animal waste ponds Why do farmers use EM1? Farmers use EM1 mainly to improve soil biology and reduce dependence on chemicals. 1. Improve soil health EM1 helps increase microbial activity in the soil. Healthy microbes can: break down organic matter faster improve nutrient availability make soil softer and more fertile 2. Better plant growth Some farmers report: stronger roots greener leaves improved crop vigor higher yields especially when soil life has been damaged by heavy chemical use. 3. Reduce bad smell and rot EM1 is often used in: compost piles animal farms manure systems because it can reduce foul odors by encouraging fermentation instead of putrefaction. 4. Compost faster EM1 speeds up decomposition of: leaves straw kitchen waste manure This helps create compost more quickly. 5. Reduce chemical fertilizer use Some farmers use EM1 to reduce: synthetic fertilizer pesticides herbicides although results vary depending on soil condition and farming practices. Why is it called “EM1”? “EM” means Effective Microorganisms. “EM1” is the original concentrated microbial solution. Farmers often make a secondary activated form called: EM Activated Solution AEM (Activated EM) by mixing: EM1 molasses water and fermenting it for several days. Does it really work? There are mixed opinions. Supporters say: soil becomes healthier crops become stronger less odor and disease more sustainable farming Critics say: scientific evidence is inconsistent results depend heavily on soil and management some benefits may come simply from adding organic matter In practice, many organic and natural farmers still like using EM1 because it is relatively inexpensive and low risk. Here are some common farming uses of EM1:

The difference between American and Indian

There is something very interesting about American margiis or acarya. When discussing philosophy, if they discover that your understanding or insight is higher than theirs, they suddenly stop talking and no longer want to discuss with you. From then on, they may even ignore you completely and stop exchanging namaskar with you. Indians are different. Several times, I discussed philosophy with teachers from the training center. Even if they realized that your understanding and insight were deeper or more advanced than theirs, they would still continue to interact with you, and you could even sense a trace of admiration from them.

kill 100,000 yound man in Singapore

During the Second World War, Japan invaded Singapore. More than 100,000 ethnic Chinese youths were taken out and executed by gunfire. 时间回溯到1975年。4月30日这天，西贡城内枪声逐渐停息，最后一架美国直升机从美国大使馆楼顶起飞，留下了那张后来广为流传的照片。数百名越南人拼命想要抓住直升机的起落架。越南战争以这样一种戏剧性的方式结束了。美国这个超级大国在付出了58000多名士兵的生命，耗费了近两千亿美元军费之后，最终选择了撤离。

how do you know people

i know how to read people. face reading. when BaBA saw me, he reconized me as an saint. He was so happy to see me. Anisha saw me she saw her anemy. so you know what Anisha is. She likes to gasip people. i saw some, not many people like gasip, the one who likes gosip, easily to be Anisha's friend.